#EDP WASP FOR SALE MANUAL#

Sorry if I was not clear, of course the plug is on the wallwart, one of these babies: I don't think the type of connector is damaging the Wasp, tho it can quite easily damage the wallwart if you are not careful. If you buy a used 9V DC wallwart it will probably have a different connector than what is on the Wasp, so you will need to change it to suit your Wasp. If anyone knows of some kind of glue/epoxy that could reenforce it please let me know. I am just very nervous about removing the plastic case as it already has a couple of hairline cracks and is super fragile. So it sounds to me like there's something strange possibly going on in that upper right hand corner section of the Wasp. The Wasp has 2 Link jacks and both are unresponsive. It comes with a cable that plugs into the Wasp's 'Link' jack (7-pin DIN). I wonder what's going on there?! I also have the Wasp/KADI expansion for my Kenton Pro-2000. My output jack for instance doesn't short out the speaker when a plug is inserted into it. Currently I have a plan to replace several jacks in that area of the Wasp. I'm planning on using my DVM to check things out. Is that correct? I'm really in the dark with power supplies as they're the one thing I've never really built and/or repaired. So are you saying the very nature of the type of jack the Wasp uses for power may be causing it to malfunction? I was also told by somebody that the power supply should have positive tip polarity.

You are referring to the psu jack on the Wasp, correct? To my eyes it always looked suspicious especially comparing it to the jacks on an SH-101, and even guitar effect pedals. You said, 'You will have to change the connector, as it is rare to see a minijack on a wallwart'. The PSU should be easy to fix, it is as basic as it gets and no rare parts.Дo you have a multimeter? Use it to check your power supplies that they are working, emitting 9V DC and the connector is wired up as you need it. If this is what you have tried and it is still not working, guess there is a problem in the Wasp. Always make sure the wallwart is unplugged from the wall before you insert or remove the minijack. The problem with having a minijack is you will short it to ground if you plug it in or remove it whilst the power is on. You will have to change the connector, as it is rare to see a minijack on a wallwart. These are usually for sale for $1 at junk shops/markets etc. So you need a 9V DC wallwart, the kind of thing that comes with Korg Electribes and 100s of other small electrical products. It would be easy enough with a DVM to check the output of the power supplies you have.but the problem might very well be a power regulator or other component in the Wasp itself.ДЄs far as I can see in the schematics, the Wasp has a 7805 regulator and every chip runs off 5V.

#EDP WASP FOR SALE MANUAL#

You can find service manual pages and other Wasp documentation here: Much appreciated.ДЄre you 100% sure the problem is the power supplies you've bought and not something else with the Wasp? Can somebody please point me in the right direction and/or give me a link to a UK vendor that sells that proper supply? I can't see any other way. I have a couple of step down transformers/converters (UK-U.S.) in the studio and at this point I'd be more than happy to buy a confirmed working psu from the UK if it means the I'll finally be able to use it without batteries.

I have followed this criteria to the point of now having 3 useless power supplies because none of them work with my Wasp. The connector is a 1/8' (3.5mm) minijack. Current Capacity should be no less than 400mA. I was told by a well respected tech that the requirments are I've been on the hunt for such a seemingly simple psu I think it's crazy my journey has lasted so long. Mark the topic unreadВ :: View previous topic :: View next topic

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Edp wasp for sale